Maupiti: The Bora Bora of Fifty Years Ago

When people think of the Society Islands of French Polynesia, two places typically spring to mind: Tahiti and Bora Bora. Lately, a few others—namely, Mo’orea and Huahine— have also started to gain popularity.

But the island of Maupiti rarely comes up. In fact, before we started cruising, we had never heard of it.

View of Maupiti Island — *A view of Maupiti’s main island*

As we departed Bora Bora and set sail toward Niue, we thought Maupiti would be a nice stop to break up the journey. So after some careful passage planning, we pulled off our mooring in Bora Bora and headed off.

This was kind of a big deal because entering Maupiti’s lagoon can be downright treacherous. You must enter the narrow channel at just the right time. People have died attempting this entry.

Aerial view of the Maupiti pass — *An aerial view of the Maupiti pass*. *Photo: Pierre Lesage*

But we were determined to explore this authentic little island, so we did our homework and carefully planned our trip to ensure the safest arrival.

As we approached the channel, the breakwaters were fierce—waves more than nine feet high. We could see why, at Maupiti, you don’t just enter the channel; you study it first.

Over the VHF, we heard two cruisers discussing the pass, so we joined the conversation and asked a departing catamaran for more information about the current conditions. After assessing his input, we grabbed our binoculars and crisscrossed the entrance for a while to examine the wave patterns and sizes.

We eventually saw a perfect opening and took it; it was easily the most intense minute of our lives. Then a sigh of relief: we had made it through.

A Bit About Maupiti

Maupiti sits roughly 195 miles northwest of Tahiti and just 25 miles west of its famous neighbor, Bora Bora. Often described as “the Bora Bora of fifty years ago,” this tiny volcanic island has staunchly resisted mass tourism, luxury resorts, and overwater bungalows. Today, you’ll find just a few tour operators here, and the island is largely devoid of tourism. We marveled at how nice the locals are here.

Surrounded by a bright blue lagoon, a ring of sandy islets (motus), and protective coral reefs, Maupiti is characterized by its authentic Polynesian culture, vibrant marine ecosystem, and slow-paced island life. Measuring only 4.2 square miles in total land area, the island is one of the smallest in the archipelago, yet it is just as lush and dramatic as all the rest. It’s dominated by the dramatic, jagged silhouette of Mount Teurafaatiu, which rises 1,247 feet out of the water.

View of Maupiti at sunset — *A vew of Maupiti at sunset*

It is believed that Maupiti was first settled over a thousand years ago, and its strategic location as a stopover in the vast Pacific made it an essential part of early Polynesian voyaging routes. Today, it is home to a small population of under 1,300 people, fostering a close-knit community where everyone plays a role in maintaining the island’s cultural heritage.

Maupiti Highlights

1. Mount Teurafaatiu

This hike (actually, often a “climb”) takes you to Maupiti’s highest point of 1,247 feet. For those who enjoy hiking, it’s a famous, must-do Maupiti adventure.

Before we did it, we noted a lot of confusion online about the route. It’s quite simple, actually. We followed Google Maps to the trailhead pin and went up the hill next to the white building shown below. From there, the trail is very well marked.

Entrance to Mount Teurafaatiu hike — *The entrance to the Mount Teurafaatiu hike*

*A Mount Teurafaatiu hike entrance sign*

There we were: 9:30 a.m., already sweating and laden with more water than two humans should consume in a day. But it’s all part of the experience, so up we went!

As we were warned, it is steep.

Mount Teurafaatiu Climbing Rope — *A rope helps climbers ascend and descend* *Mount Teurafaatiu*.

It took about an hour, and we made it to the top! The views are spectacular from the summit.

View from the top of Mount Teurafaatiu — *The views from the top of Mount Teurafaatiu* *are breathtaking.*

View from Mount Teurafaatiu — Obligatory glamour shot with the treacherous Maupiti pass in the background

*We enjoy the views at the top of Mount Teurafaatiu*.

Hoping to take the longer western route back down, we turned left instead of right at the bottom of the big rock and continued past a platform with two odd solar panels. However, when AllTrails and a mysterious arrow on a tree disagreed on which direction we should go, we turned back and descended the same way we had come up.

For us, the descent was definitely more challenging than the ascent. The terrain can be slippery, and you have to choose your footholds carefully. In the end, we both agreed—it’s a challenging hike, but the view is absolutely worth it.

2. Manta Rays

We tried snorkeling on our own to see the manta rays, but the day we went, the visibility was terrible.

In French Polynesia, you are not allowed to freedive to see manta rays, but you can scuba dive with them. So we booked a dive trip with Maupiti Diving. We are so glad we did! Our guide, Lily, was beyond amazing. The dive was perfect in every way—bucket-list-worthy.

If you keep watching, you will see one of them opening its gills so the fish can “clean” it.

They were huge! On that dive, we saw six manta rays at once, including one female about to give birth. Amazing!

3. The Saturday Ahima’a Feast (Umu) on Motu Taipa’a

Every Saturday starting at around 11:30 a.m., a local family hosts a traditional Polynesian feast on Motu Taipa’a.

In preparation for this celebration of Polynesian culture, locals prepare an earth oven, layering volcanic rocks, hot embers, and fragrant banana leaves deep in the ground. Hours of slow cooking transform local ingredients—like suckling pig, breadfruit (uru), taro, and sweet po’e—into smoky delicacies. More than just a meal, this ritual binds the community together.

You can learn more about this tradition here.

Ahima’a Feast Maupiti — *The food is cooked in a hot stone pit.*

The feast we attended was packed with locals and visitors.

After everyone else left, Roy and I, along with our friends Mandy and Billy, two cruisers from Australia, got to relax with three of the motu’s locals.

Polynesian Umu Maupiti — *The Ahima’a host, center, plays drums and ukulele for us. To his left and right are our friends Billy (L) and Mandy (R).*

Local women singing — *The women sing along.*

Local resident Bridget shows us her private beach — *Local resident Bridget (right) gives Mandy and me a tour of her private beach*.

It was a memorable experience. We later attended a similar feast in Tonga.

4. Motu Auira

On Maupiti, there’s a rite of passage: “walk” all the way from the main island to the rustic motu of Auira.

The island’s sandbar makes this possible. Silly us, though—we went at high tide and during a heavy current. I guess a workout was in order!

Off we went, balancing our valuables on our heads. At one point, the water was shoulder-high. The challenge is to walk it all the way and resist the temptation to swim.

After we made landfall, we explored the motu and admired a lovely beachfront home there. We were immediately accosted by some guard dogs, who played with us on the beach for a while.

Motu Auira guard dogs — *Two sweet guard dogs greet us.*

As the sun prepared to set, we waded back to the other side (scroll through to see my progress):

It is a unique experience, and we definitely recommend it, especially if you go during low tide and calm conditions.

5. The Beach

Speaking of beaches, this category takes the number 4 spot.

But not the one pictured below. This is Tereia Beach—a destination we were looking forward to based on all the hype online.

We went there twice, but the scene was the same as in the picture above. It’s called Point Puoro’o, but this frequently visited section of the beach is a bit north of the actual point.

We decided to venture farther south and waded around two landmasses to the section surrounding and beyond the point.

It is magnificent and so worth it! It is a very special low-tide destination, as the ocean swallows much of it up the rest of the time.

Point Puoro'o: closer to Maupiti Residence — *We first explore a section of Point Puoro’o Beach that lies just south of Tereia Beach*.

Point Puoro'o — *South of Tereia Beach* at *Point Puoro’o*

Look at this! We had it all to ourselves.

Lava rock at Point Puoro'o — *Lava rock at Point Puoro’o*

Tropical Almond Tree at Point Puoro'o — *A tropical almond tree at Point Puoro’o*

6. Exploring the Island by Bike

Like Bora Bora, Maupiti has a stunning lagoon that surrounds the primary island. The colors are a sight to behold.

Add to that the fact that the island is so small, and there’s no better way to explore the island than the slow way—by bike.

On a bike, you can easily explore the entire island in a few hours and stop whenever you wish to admire the stunning views. Except for one hilly switchback section, the roads are mostly flat and well-paved.

7. The Promenade

This isn’t an official attraction, and it’s certainly not fancy, but when you walk along the waterfront in Vai’ea instead of the main road, you get to see all the wooden fishing boats and some pretty scenery. You can access it from the ferry dock on one end and from the sports complex on the other.

The The promenade near the ferry dock near the ferry dock — *The promenade near the ferry dock* *serves as a handy walking path.*

Promenade near Maupiti's ferry dock — *Many fishing boats line the promenade near Maupiti’s ferry dock*.

It’s fun seeing all the different boats—workhorses for the local fishermen.

*A colorful fishing boat with floats on the promenade near Maupiti’s ferry dock*

One night, we came across a group of locals enjoying a sundowner on the promenade while listening to festive Polynesian music. They moved their chairs out of the way and welcomed us with all the traditional greetings, but even more notable was the warmth of their smiles. Typical Polynesia.

8. Palais de la Mer

Located on the main road just north of town is the Palais de la Mer, or Coral Palace.

Its owner, Akhy Firuu, is a well-known Polynesian singer who began building this elaborate homestead from natural materials gathered from the sea some 20 years ago and still hasn’t finished it. He’s trying to recreate the seabed’s atmosphere in his home. It looks like this:

Palais de la Mer, Maupiti — *An interior view of Palais de la Mer*

It reminds us of artist Ashley Saunders’ Dolphin House in Bimini, Bahamas.

The opening hours vary widely, so check the gate for the latest times. The time changed three times while we were here.

9. Petroglyphs of Haranae

This archaeological site really doesn’t warrant a visit, except for one thing: its pretty surroundings. There’s one main petroglyph, shown below:

Petroglyphs of Haranae, Maupiti — *I admire the one petroglyph we find.*

After viewing it, you can walk a little farther up; it’s a lovely shaded respite just a short distance from Vai’ea town center.

10. Marae

There are dozens—possibly hundreds—of them around the island. Most are simply a marker, but a few feature a rock formation:

Marae Te Pito Na Maehaa I Ta Putapuatea, Maupiti — *Marae Te Pito Na Maehaa I Ta Putapuatea*

Unmarked Marae, Maupiti — *An unmarked marae*

Marae Taifarii, Maupiiti — *Marae Taifarii*

Other Memories

Exploring the Motus

From our anchorage, we took our dinghy to a tiny, deserted motu nestled within Motu Tuanai. It was, in essence, a motu within a motu.

We had it all to ourselves.

Exploring motus in Maupiti — *Our own private motu for the day*

It made for a fun afternoon.

Maupiti motu — *Roy practices his tree-climbing skills.*

Skull Head Rock

I honestly don’t know the history of this spot, but others have noted the cliff looks like a skull:

I think I see it.

Family Graves

In Maupiti, there’s no communal cemetery (as of this writing), so many locals bury their family members on their own property. The graves are prevalent; you can’t miss them. For Polynesians, it signifies a connection to the family land.

Some have roofs, some don’t. Some are elaborately decorated, and one even had embellishments that lit up at night.

The one below is my hands-down favorite. The unopened cans of beer are precious, and the seashells around the perimeter (in progress) are a beautiful touch. This person was well-loved.

Grave, Maupiti — *An adorned grave in front of a local residence catches our attention*.

Other Observations

We came across this hog freely wandering the street in Vai’ea multiple times. One day, it just disappeared.

Free-range pig, Maupiti — *A free-range pig wanders the main street in Vaiea’s town center*.

There was another one on the other side of the island, but it was tied up:

Large black pig in Maupiti — *A second pig*

This is the first place I’ve seen young people playing petanque. It is usually a pastime dominated by the older generations. These young men certainly seemed to be enjoying it:

Petanque Game, Maupiti — *Three young men play petanque near the ferry landing*.

We saw school buses that were the same type that we had seen in Bora Bora:

Interior of school bus, Maupiti — *Interior of a school bus in Vaiea*

What is interesting here is that they have a crossing guard who rides the bus with the children and walks them across the street.

School bus, Maupiti — *A school bus* *attendant helps children across the street in Vaiea*.

The local church, below. I love the anchor symbol—a nod to the community’s strong connection to the sea:

The bells of this church ring vigorously every Sunday morning.

Where We Ate

Restaurant Tarona

Restaurant Tarona is arguably the most well-known restaurant on the island. We ate here multiple times.

It lived up to the hype! The food is delicious, and the portions are characteristically enormous.

They are open Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. We were advised to arrive by noon. It was packed every time we were there.

Snack Raitea

We ordered takeaway pizza from this snack shop five times. The dough was a bit undercooked for us the first two times, but they’re literally one of only two dinner options on the entire island, so we cheerfully returned multiple times. The 3 frommage (three cheese) was our favorite.

The third time we went there, they announced they could offer only one pizza flavor—margarita. Given the options, we were certainly grateful for it. Like Roy says, “You get what you get!”

Hani Snacking

They offer paninis, crepes, and the most delicious ice cream in homemade waffle cones. Best yet, they are open six days a week, 11:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday and on Sundays. Closed Saturdays.

Taro ice cream at Hani Snacking, Maupiti — *Roy enjoys* *Taro ice cream at Hani Snacking*.

Shopping

FARE TOA Tarava

Our favorite magasin is attached to our favorite snack shop (Hani Snacking). It is open from 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily.

Super Patito

Open 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday (closed Sundays). They offer a decent selection of basic grocery items.

Souvenirs

Artisant Mapiti — *I buy a few lovely items made by Tea here*.

Vai'ea pavilion, Maupiti — *Maupiti Market at Vai’ea Pavilion*

Accommodations

There are no resorts on Maupiti. All accommodations are small pensions.

We stayed on our catamaran, first in the southwest anchorage and then in the eastern anchorage. We definitely preferred the latter, due to the more protected geography.

Getting Here

It’s a 55-minute flight from Tahiti-Faa’a airport to Maupiti, where you land on the islet of Motu Tuanai. A small passenger ferry then takes you on a 15-minute trip across the lagoon to the main island.

The Maupiti Express also offers a twice-weekly ferry service from Bora Bora.

We sailed here on our catamaran.

Getting Around

We circumnavigated the island three times: twice on foot and once on bikes. We rented the bikes from Vaihau Location, right next to the Mairie de Maupiti. The prices are reasonable, and the bikes are nice and new. We were assured we did not need to lock them up. They were right.

Vaihau Location, Maupiti — *My bike rental from Vaihau Location*

Bike from Vaihau Location, Maupiti — *Roy conquers the hill*.

Final Thoughts

Going to Maupiti was a commitment. Entering the channel on our catamaran was downright scary, and we were committed to staying until conditions were favorable enough to leave.

Would we do it again? By airplane or ferry, absolutely. By sailboat, maybe, under the right conditions at the pass. The scenery, hiking, and people are amazing.

We recommend booking a dive with Maupiti Diving in advance (ask for Lily) to see the manta rays, then spending 2-3 days here biking around the island, hiking, diving, and snorkeling.

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