Vanua Levu, Fiji: The Untamed Heart of the Northern Islands

When most people picture Fiji, they picture Viti Levu—Fiji’s largest island, home to the capital Suva, the international airport at Nadi, and the resort-lined coasts that dominate travel brochures. But 40 miles to the north lies a very different kind of island: Vanua Levu, the second largest landmass in the Fijian archipelago, and in many ways the country’s least-known major destination.

Its name translates from Fijian as “Great Land” or “Big Land,” and while it doesn’t draw the crowds that Viti Levu does, it offers a more textured, less filtered picture of what Fiji actually is.

Vanua Levu is home to somewhere in the range of 130,000 to 160,000 people, depending on the year and source of the estimate, with a 2022 approximation putting the figure at around 160,000.

Geography and Size

Vanua Levu is about half the size of Viti Levu. The island is shaped like a long, thin triangle, stretching around 111 miles in length and 19 to 31 miles in width.

Geologists believe Vanua Levu’s unusual shape is the result of several smaller islands gradually fusing together through repeated stages of volcanic uplift over geological time, rather than forming as a single landmass from the outset. The coastline is deeply cut into by bays—Natewa Bay slices into the island’s east side and forms a long peninsula, while the south coast is indented by Savusavu and Wainunu bays.

Vanua Levu also anchors a wider cluster of islands known as the Vanua Levu Group, which includes Taveuni (its most significant neighbor), along with Laucala, Matagi, Namena Lala, Qamea, Rabi, Vorovoro, and Yadua Tabu.

A Brief History

The island was first sighted by the Dutch navigator Abel Janszoon Tasman in 1643, making it one of the earliest parts of Fiji to be recorded by a European explorer.

*The route that Tasman took on his first and second journeys*

It was once known to traders as “Sandalwood Island,” a name that reflects its role in the sandalwood trade that drew European ships to Fiji’s shores in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, before the resource was largely exhausted.

In more recent industrial history, copper ore was mined at Udu Point in the island’s northeast until the deposit ran out in the mid-1960s, closing that chapter of the island’s economy and leaving agriculture and, later, tourism to take its place.

Demographically, the island’s population is made up mainly of Native Fijians (iTaukei) and Fiji Indians, a mix that reflects Fiji’s broader colonial-era history of indentured labor migration from India, concentrated particularly around Labasa’s sugar economy. Today, Indo-Fijians make up almost 50 percent of the population here.

Vanua Levu, Fiji Highlights

1. Nagigi Naag Mandir

Located in Nagigi village, roughly nine miles from Labasa on the northwest coast of Vanua Levu, this Hindu temple was built around a naturally occurring rock formation discovered nearly a century ago, reportedly by a man named Algu.

*Roy and I pause outside Nagigi Naag Mandir.*

*Exterior of Nagigi Naag Mandir*. *The smaller shrine is located in the room at the upper left.*

Local devotees believe the stone, shaped like a snake’s head, is a living Shiva Linga that continues to grow, and a shack first built to shelter it was eventually replaced with a permanent concrete temple.

The site draws Sanatan Dharma followers from across Fiji, who regard it as a place of healing tied to Lord Shiva and Naag worship, making it a significant pilgrimage destination for Fiji’s Indo-Fijian Hindu community. While there, they practice the ceremonial puja.

Puja is a Hindu ritual of worship involving offerings such as flowers, fruit, incense, and light to a deity or sacred object. In Fiji’s Sanatan Dharma tradition, pujas are performed at temples like Naag Mandir, often accompanied by mantras, ringing bells, and prayers seeking blessings, healing, or protection from Lord Shiva.

We watched as visiting Hindus waved lit plates of oil in circles (to symbolize light dispelling darkness) and poured milk onto symbolic statues.

*Hindus participate in a puja ceremony.*

2. Dreketi River

The Dreketi River is Vanua Levu’s principal waterway and the deepest river in Fiji, stretching roughly 40 miles and navigable by small craft for about 22 miles from its mouth on the island’s north coast.

Our path to Labasa allowed us to visit multiple small riverfront villages along the way.

*We notice a number of locals riding horses.*
*Everyone is friendly and welcoming in this tiny riverfront village.*

*Roy and I appreciate the beauty of the river, which winds through the lush valley.*

*Handmade rafts line the Dreketi River.*

Historically, the river opened access to large tracts of fertile land in the interior, shaping settlement patterns and enabling sugarcane cultivation along its lower valleys, an industry that remains central to the surrounding Macuata region. Its estuary, lined with extensive mangrove forests, has long supported local fishing communities. The river’s name is also attached to the wider Dreketi district, a rural hub within Macuata Province.

3. Flora Tropica Botanical Gardens

Flora Tropica is a privately developed botanical garden on Lesiaceva Point Road outside Savusavu, occupying about five acres of hillside and creek flats overlooking Savusavu Bay. Established with a conservation focus, it houses more than 250 palm species from around the world, including rare and endangered varieties, alongside tropical fruit trees, orchids, and flowering plants.

*Roy and I pause at the gate, waiting for the owner to greet us.*

*We begin our walk on the well-marked path.*

*There are many rare and endangered plants and trees around the property.*

*According to its sign, this is a Dypsis Procera, a threatened succulent from Madagascar*

*Although not exotic,* *Bougainvillea remain among my favorite flowers.*

*The property features a lovely water view.*

*The paths all around the property are well maintained.*

Flora_Tropica_Garden_list-vanua-levu-fiji

Though a modern rather than historic site, it reflects a growing local emphasis on protecting threatened plant species within Fiji and has become a gathering place for weddings, birdwatching, and community events. We met the owner, who is trying to sell the property for some reason.

4. Nakawaga Waterfall

Nakawaga Waterfall sits above Nakawaga village in the rainforest hills near Savusavu, reached by a hike through dense jungle to a roughly 50-foot cascade and swimming pool. The waterfall itself was good, but even better were our interactions with the locals there.

The entrance process was a bit confusing to us. We saw the sign below, but we were unsure as to which hill and which house. I guess the red arrow should have been our first clue.

So we drove a bit further and met Uraia, the man in the foreground of the photo below. He said that his family owns the land that the waterfall sits on. He then brought us to his brother’s house to pay the entrance fee. It was, indeed, the hill next to the sign we had seen, but the hill seemed impossibly steep. Luckily for us, we had a 4×4 vehicle.

During this encounter, the man at the house said that Uraia is his uncle, not his brother. We seemed to have had some language barriers, but despite that, we had a lovely time getting to know these two local men, as well as Uraia’s wife.

*Roy meets the man we are told to pay for access to the waterfall.*

Once we had paid, we dropped Uraia back off at his house, and his sweet wife promptly offered us some pineapple juice.

*Our new friend, Uraia*, *in front of his house. His wife stands in the doorway.*

We politely declined and quickly moved on, though, as it was starting to get dark.

*A second sign signifies the actual entrance to the hike.*

We started hiking through the breathtaking jungle and noticed that the property’s infrastructure is very well done. They even have public restrooms available.

*Public restrooms at Nakawaga Waterfall*

*Roy hikes up the well-maintained path.*

The waterfall is well worth the short hike.

*Roy and I enjoy the cool mist at the waterfall.*

Almost all the locals waved to us as we drove through town. These boys chose to salute, which was cute.

5. Korovatu Aqua Beach

Korovatu Beach is the closest stretch of sand to Labasa, reached by heading down through coconut groves past the Nagigi Naag Mandir temple.

Once a simple picnic spot, it has been transformed through private investment into a developed destination for weddings, sporting events, company retreats, and weekend getaways. The beach has also become a popular backdrop for music videos and photo shoots.

We paid a small fee to enter.

*Roy chats with a local at Korovatu Aqua Beach.*

*The landforms near Korovatu Aqua Beach are very interesting: to us, they look like waves*.

Everyone we met there was very friendly.

6. Nakama Thermal Hot Springs

The Nakama Hot Springs in central Savusavu have been used by local Fijian villagers for centuries as a natural cauldron for cooking taro, fish, and other foods, a practice still permitted today.

We simply had to try it! We came with four eggs and high hopes.

*Roy and I pause outside the Nakama Hot Springs.*

*The eggs we boil in the Nakama Thermal Hot Springs*.

Formed within the caldera of a volcano, the springs once produced geysers reaching 40 to 60 feet in the late 19th century and remain part of Fiji’s most geothermally active zone. Local tradition holds that commercializing the springs would cause their heat to disappear, reflecting deep community respect for the site. A 2022 restoration project turned the springs into an official tourist attraction while preserving villagers’ access.

7. Labasa

Labasa is the largest town on Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second-largest island, and serves as the capital of Macuata Province.

Labasa’s modern identity was shaped by the Colonial Sugar Refining Company, which established operations in 1894 and drew thousands of Indian indentured laborers, or Girmitiyas, to work the cane fields between 1879 and 1916. This history transformed the town into a center of Indo-Fijian culture, reflected today in its temples, markets, and Fiji Hindi language.

A field superintendent speaks with Indian tenant farmers in
a cane-growing district near Labasa, 1955. Photo: Getty

At the time, there was deep segregation on the island, as demonstrated by this “whites only” grocery store:

*Exterior of the* *old* *Morris Hedstrom store, Labasa*

*Interior of the old Morris Hedstrom store, Labasa*

Today, Labasa’s Ram Leela performances, reenacting the life of Lord Ram, keep Girmitiya heritage alive for descendants. The town has also hosted Fiji’s National Girmit Commemoration Day.

Its sugar-driven economy and large Fiji Indian community distinguish it from the more indigenous Fijian character of Savusavu.

8. Urata Lookout

Urata Lookout sits along the scenic 56-mile highway connecting Labasa and Savusavu, at a point where the road crests the hills after the Sekawa valley to reveal the first view of Savusavu Bay.

*Roy and I enjoy the views at Urata Lookout.*

*The views from this lookout are beautiful.*

For years, it was an informal spot where travelers stopped to take in the view, though the site had also become littered. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the U.S. Embassy funded the Rotary Club of Savusavu and the local Urata community to build a permanent café here, opened by Fijian Prime Minister Sitiveni Rabuka. Built on land belonging to the Urata mataqali, the café now channels tourism income directly to the village.

*Roy and I enjoy a flat white coffee here.*

Other Things to Do in Vanua Levu, Fiji

Rainbow Reef

Naselesele waterfalls

Muanivatu Trails

Kayak the Dreketi River

Where We Ate

FIJI TIME Mexican Grill

Domoni’s Waterfront Dining

Shopping

Labasa Market

Labasa Market has long served as the commercial and social heart of Labasa. Vendors sell kava roots, sugarcane, spices, and the fiery “Labasa chilies” renowned across Fiji, alongside Fijian handicrafts such as woven mats and baskets for which Vanua Levu women are known. The mix of Hindi and Fijian spoken among stallholders and shoppers embodies the town’s multicultural character.

We were here on a Sunday, so only a few vendors were working.

The market normally looks like this:

Savusavu Farmers’ Market

The market is open every day except Sunday, with Saturday being the busiest day. That’s when farmers come from all over the island, and the market is at its most stocked.

*A vendor at the Savusavu Farmers’ Market sells kava roots.*

Outside of the local markets, there are a number of modern grocery stores, most notably in Savusavu and Labasa. My favorite was Fresh Choice.

Accommodations

We stayed on our catamaran at the Nawi Island Marina. We’ve stayed at our fair share of marinas, and this one is now one of our favorites. Everything about it is pretty stunning.

There are several hotels and Airbnb properties on Vanua Levu, as well, mostly in Savusavu and Labasa.

Getting Here

Vanua Levu is reached primarily by air or sea from Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. Domestic flights connect Nadi and Suva to airports in both Labasa and Savusavu, with the trip from Nadi taking about an hour. Several smaller airstrips also serve remote parts of the island.

You can also take a ferry from Suva or Lautoka, though the crossing runs roughly 12 hours and often includes a bus transfer through Nabouwalu.

Because Vanua Levu sees far fewer visitors than Viti Levu, flights and ferries run less frequently, so booking ahead is recommended, especially during peak travel seasons.

Getting Around

While Savusavu and even Labasa are walkable, motorized transportation is required for trips outside of town. Luckily, paved highways link Labasa and Savusavu, a scenic 56-mile drive through the mountains. Taxis are widely available in both towns, and some drivers will agree to drive long distances.

Public buses offer the cheapest option, running with open windows along main routes for a few dollars, though schedules can be informal.

*Street vendors sell snacks to bus riders in Savusavu.*

In the rural areas, we saw locals riding in carrier trucks. Some of them were jam-packed.

*Locals in Nakawaga village—dressed in their Sunday best—ride in a carrier truck*.

Rental cars provide the most flexibility for exploring rural areas. That’s what we did: we rented a car from AA Car Rentals. It was a clean, virtually brand-new car, and the four-wheel drive came in handy as we traversed the island.

Final Thoughts

Despite being relatively close to Viti Levu, Vanua Levu remains less developed and far less frequented by tourists than its larger neighbor. For visitors, that translates into a genuinely different kind of experience: fewer resorts, more everyday village life, and landscapes that feel less curated for tourism. It offers a chance to observe Fijian traditions and culture in a setting that hasn’t been reshaped as heavily by the tourism industry.

Whether it’s the working sugar town of Labasa, the yacht-filled harbor of Savusavu, the forested peninsula in the south, or the reefs ringing its coast, Vanua Levu presents a version of Fiji defined less by resort infrastructure and more by geography, industry, and everyday life. For travelers who have already seen Viti Levu—or who simply want to see a different side of the country—Vanua Levu offers a much quieter and, in many ways, more revealing view of Fiji.

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