Great Exuma, the largest island in the 365-island Exuma archipelago, serves as the definitive gateway to the Bahamas’ most striking landscapes. Spanning roughly 37 miles, the island is characterized by rolling limestone hills, lush mangroves, and the legendary Elizabeth Harbour—a 7-mile-long protected stretch of water that has earned the island its reputation as the “Regatta Capital of the Bahamas.”
This is what we saw as we entered Elizabeth Harbour:
The stripes were so dramatic. I had to wrap my head around it.
George Town itself is the administrative center of the Exumas. The District of Exuma, which includes Great Exuma Island, has a population of approximately 7,293 people as of the 2022 census. About 2,500 of them live in George Town.
Founded in 1793 and named in honor of King George III, it was a 17th-century pirate haven, an 18th-century cotton plantation site, and a WWII U.S. Navy refitting base. Today, it is a popular tourist destination in the Bahamas.
Things We Loved Most About George Town
1. Mariah Harbour Cay National Park
Okay, the nature walk itself is nice, but the end? Wow.
Now some logistics. This is on Stocking Island, right across from Great Exumas (George Town). If you look for a place called Basil’s Classroom, you will find the start of the Moriah Harbour Cay National Park trail.
It is little-known, but you can hike the trail all the way to the other end.
We did it. At the end, you emerge at the lagoon shown here. It’s right around the corner from Sand Dollar beach.
As far as I can see, it doesn’t have a name, but it is spectacular.
We were speechless, and I couldn’t wait to get in.
It was shallow, so I just kept going. We had it all to ourselves, and we wondered how many people even knew about this place.
I’m the tiny dot you see in the middle. It was surreal.
To this day, I consider it one of the prettiest lagoons we have ever visited, anywhere in the world.
2. Beacon Hill (Monument Hill)
Rising to the highest point on Stocking Island, the Monument (often referred to as Beacon Hill) is a historic stone obelisk that serves as a primary navigational landmark for sailors entering Elizabeth Harbour. Originally constructed in the 19th century, the beacon was built by early salt traders and mariners to guide vessels safely toward George Town.
The structure itself is a stark, white-painted stone pillar that stands in contrast against the vibrant blues of the surrounding Atlantic Ocean and the shallower harbor waters.
Before hiking up to the monument, we partook in a time-honored cruiser tradition: we spelled out our boat name, Apricus, in rocks at the base of the hill.
It was exhausting moving all those rocks around in the scorching heat, but we were motivated.
We thought it looked pretty great, so we set out on the hike to the top of Beacon Hill to admire our work.
For some reason, we chose the hard path. It was almost entirely vertical.
You know it’s steep when you need a rope.
But we did it!
And look, our boat name…so beautiful.
We were so proud of ourselves that we even took selfies in front of it.
We were so excited.
A few weeks later, we returned to admire it again. But just like that, it was gone.
Funny.
On the plus side, we got to see the monument twice. The first time we were there, someone had placed a toy dinosaur at the base. I guess he had moved on by our second visit.
3. Art Trail
The Stocking Island Art Trail is a unique, open-air gallery created and maintained by the international cruising community.
Unlike traditional formal galleries, this art walk features a whimsical collection of sculptures and installations crafted from repurposed materials, driftwood, painted rocks, and colorful flotsam, such as weathered buoys and discarded flip-flops.
The trail serves as a vibrant symbol of the Exumas’ cruising culture, blending environmental conservation with community creativity.
We learned about this from another cruiser, and we loved it, so we decided to participate.
You can access the trail by taking a water taxi to Hamburger Beach or trekking from the Chat ‘N Chill beach bar.
If you take the trail all the way through, you are rewarded with a beautiful beach on the other end.
We sat and enjoyed it for a while.
4. Sand Dollar Beach
Sand Dollar Beach is a quintessential Bahamian paradise renowned for its shallow, crystal-clear waters and powdery white sand. True to its name, the beach is a prime location for finding sand dollars, particularly during low tide when the receding ocean reveals sprawling sandbars that stretch far into Elizabeth Harbour. These delicate “tests” of the sea urchin are often found partially buried in the soft ripples of the seafloor.
The beach’s sand bars make it an ideal spot for wading and snorkeling. We were able to walk out quite far.
Accessible only by boat or a short hike across the island’s ridge, the area remains pristine. On a clear day, the water’s shifting hues range from pale glass to deep turquoise. It embodies the tranquil, untouched beauty that defines the Exuma Cays.
We were the only people there that day; it was paradise.
5. Blue Hole & Mystery Cave
The Mystery Cave and its associated Blue Hole form a world-class underwater geological marvel. Unlike many landlocked blue holes, Mystery Cave is an oceanic blue hole, meaning its entrance is submerged beneath the turquoise sea. The cave’s opening is roughly 20 feet deep, leading into a sprawling subterranean system of limestone tunnels and chambers that extend deep beneath the island. This site is particularly famous for its unique tidal flow, where the cave “breathes” with the tides—sucking water in during high tide and expelling it during low tide, creating a mesmerizing but powerful current for experienced divers.
The site is a haven for marine biodiversity, as the cave’s constant water exchange provides a nutrient-rich environment for snappers, groupers, and colorful reef fish that congregate around its entrance.
We were without dive tanks, so we stayed at the entrance.
6. Starfish Beach
Starfish Beach is a serene stretch of coastline famed for its high concentration of cushion sea stars (Oreaster reticulatus). These large echinoderms thrive in the beach’s shallow, crystal-clear lagoons and calm sand flats, often visible from the water’s surface without the need for snorkeling gear. We waded in and saw some. You could easily spot them above the waterline because of the water’s clarity.
We made sure to look but not touch.
Other Memories
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church. Pretty!
Where We Ate
Chat ‘n’ Chill
This is more than a beach bar; it’s a cultural institution. Accessible only by boat, Chat ‘N’ Chill is famous for its Sunday pig roast. You can grab a Goombay Smash, find a hammock, and watch the stingrays glide right up to the shoreline. We ate here a few times, once on a Sunday.
It was fun.
Sandpiper Cafe
This little cafe seemed to have pretty limited hours, but we ate brunch here one day. It was lovely!
Exuma Yacht Club
This club has a full-service restaurant, open to the public. We ate on the deck.
This was a go-to dinner spot for us.
Shopping
There’s one main grocery store on the island, Exuma Market. It’s very cruiser-friendly, with its own dinghy dock.
To get there, you motor under a bridge.
It’s pretty well stocked.
For a pharmacy, Smitty’s Grocery & Convenience is the place to go. It’s about an hour walk (2.7 miles), but it’s the only game in town. It’s located on Queen’s Highway in Hoopers Bay.
Just before Smitty’s, we even found a warehouse-style general store, AiD.
We were able to buy some fire extinguishers here.
For clothing, Sandpiper Boutique is a great place to splurge. Not inexpensive, but charming.
For souvenirs, there’s always the Straw Market. It’s open daily from 9:00 a.m. until about 4:30 p.m.
Accommodations
There are several land-based hotels and Airbnbs on Great Exuma Island, as well as accommodations on neighboring Stocking Island.
For cruisers, there are several anchorages at George Town, Great Exuma Island, such as Moss Cays, Kidd’s Cove, Rolle Cay, Litter Box, SW Tip Crab Cay, and Little Crab Cay. Those are just a few. There are also anchorages by Stocking Island and some mooring fields.
We anchored at Moss Cays anchorage both times we went there.
We also took a slip at the Marina at Emerald Bay when we went home for a few weeks. It’s on the north side of the island at Rokers Point Settlement.
We thought it was great.
Getting There
By Air
The Exuma International Airport (GGT) is located about 15 minutes north of George Town.
- From the US: Direct flights are available daily from Miami (MIA) on American Eagle and Atlanta (ATL) on Delta. Silver Airways also runs frequent flights from Fort Lauderdale (FLL).
- From Nassau: Bahamasair and Western Air offer multiple 40-minute hopper flights daily.
- From Canada: Air Canada offers seasonal direct flights from Toronto (YYZ).
By Sea
- Private Sailboat: From Nassau, it is roughly a 35– to 40-nautical-mile run to the northern end of the Exuma Cays (such as Highborne Cay). From there, you can day-sail south through the island chain until you reach George Town.
- Commercial Ferry: Bahamas Ferries operates a car and passenger ferry from Nassau to George Town once or twice a week. Be prepared for a long journey—it typically takes about 12 to 14 hours.
- Mail Boat: For a truly local (and budget-friendly) experience, the MV Grand Master runs weekly from Nassau to George Town. It’s slow (14+ hours) but offers a unique look at Bahamian logistics.
We sailed there on our catamaran.
Getting Around
Taxis: Readily available at the airport. A ride to George Town usually costs around $25 to $30.
Rental Cars: Recommended if you want to explore the “Little Exuma” side or the northern beaches. There are several rental car companies on the island.
Scooters: The island is 37 miles long. We sometimes took our electric scooters, but we noticed that even though Queen’s Highway is paved, it has many potholes.
Final Thoughts
For us, Great Exuma Island offered a nice balance between convenience (George Town) and beauty (Stocking Island). We spent most of our time anchored at George Town but exploring Stocking Island. From the powdery white sand of Sand Dollar Beach to the colorful starfish at Starfish Beach, it was the quintessential Bahamas.
At the same time, George Town had the shops and marina that we needed. We were even able to fly in a fire extinguisher servicing technician from Nassau. It was very convenient.
If we were to return, I would like to see Little Exuma and the Tropic of Cancer Beach.
Originally experienced in January 2024; content refreshed in March 2026.
