Nuku Hiva, the largest and most imposing of the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia, rises from the Pacific Ocean not with the gentle, reef-fringed serenity of Tahiti, but with a raw, prehistoric grandeur that has earned it the name, “The Mystical Island.”
It was famously immortalized by Herman Melville in his semi-autobiographical novel, Typee. Melville, who deserted a whaling ship in 1842, lived among the Taipivai people and captured the Western imagination with tales of cannibalism and noble savages.
There’s also some history between Nuka Hiva and the United States. The “Nuku Hiva Campaign” was an armed conflict between the United States and the Polynesian inhabitants of Nuku Hiva during the War of 1812. Americans became involved in a tribal war and allied themselves with the Te I’i people against the Happah and Tai Pi clans. It was claimed for the United States in 1813 by David Porter, a U.S. naval officer who built a small fort there.
About 3,000 people live there today, mostly in the main town of Taiohae.
Nuku Hiva’s steep cliffs, thick forests, and beautiful beaches are spectacular, and the island is unbelievably lush.
Add to that its thriving ancestral culture, and it left a lasting impression on us.
The Top 10 Things We Loved Most About Nuku Hiva
1. The Hatiheu Valley Archaeological Sites
The Ensemble Tahakia Kamuihei Teiipoka is a major, interconnected archaeological complex located in the Hatiheu Valley on the north coast of Nuku Hiva. It is considered one of the most significant and mystical cultural sites in the Marquesas Islands, showcasing the ancient history and civilization of the region.
This area features ancient volcanic stone tikis, petroglyphs, and paepae (stone platforms). Key spots include the Kamuihei, Hikokua, and Teiipoka sites, which also house ancient banyan trees. We visited all three.
2. Hatihe’u Beach
Hatihe’u Beach, located on the northern coast of Nuku Hiva, is a dramatic, dark-sand beach surrounded by sheer mountain cliffs.
It is a beautiful, peaceful place. Other than a few locals, we had it all to ourselves.
On the beach, we chatted with a local for a while. Everyone was friendly and welcoming.
There we saw yet another carving. They are everywhere!
On the other side of the street, overlooking the beach, is the Church of the Sacred Hearts.
As is characteristic of churches in the Marquesas, there are beautiful carvings:
3. Scenic Views of Hatihe’u Bay
We loved the beach at Hatihe’u, and equally enjoyed the views of its bay from above.
We saw it from here:
4. Observation Point Grand Canyon
Seeing the lush canyon from the mountainous heights was awe-inspiring.
5. Tekeika
One thing we’ve learned: when you see a big red banner on the side of the road in French Polynesia, stop. It will be a pretty spectacular sight.
We saw one here, and we immediately pulled over:
There we saw magnificent views and some playful ponies.
The view of the bay was breathtaking.
6. Ho’oumi and Its Beach
Ho’oumi is a small village on the south side of the island. It is located along Taioha’e Bay.
We found a tranquil little beach there.
Equipped with fresh eierkoeken (egg cakes), we headed there fairly early one morning.
We enjoyed simply sitting and enjoying the tranquility of this place.
The town, located nearby, is sleepy and fiercely authentic. While driving through it, we came upon the Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Mary.
Its vibrant colors are pretty.
Beautiful carvings, as usual:
7. Tiki Tuhiva
No trip to Nuku Hiva is complete without visiting its enormous tiki sculpture.
Inaugurated in 2017, it is a 40-foot-high, contemporary sculpture of a female tiki (guardian of tradition) and a male tiki (warrior). It overlooks Taioha’e Bay and symbolizes power, knowledge, and ancestral protection, representing the core of Marquesan culture.
Created by Benoît Kautai and Grégorio Grand-Midi, it is considered one of the highest in the Pacific.
8. The Village of Taiohae
The capital of the Marquesas Islands, Taiohae serves as the main town and administrative center, with a population of around 2,200 people. It’s located on a former volcanic crater, which partly collapsed into the ocean, creating the bay.
There’s a lot to see in its small footprint of just about 1.65 square miles.
While walking through the village, we happened upon this guy, all by himself.
We also stumbled upon an unassuming stone structure with a bright blue door. It looked like a jail, and it turns out, it is.
Located near the marketplace and pier in Taiohae, this tiny prison often houses just a few inmates under an open-regime system.
Here, prisoners have freedom within the grounds. More serious offenders are sent to Pape’ete. It is known as “the smallest prison in France.”
Just down the road, in the center of town, sits a rectangular plaza with flat areas surrounded by platforms. It is Tohua Temehea, an important archaeological site and ceremonial square.
This ancient landmark is used for significant community gatherings, rituals, and tribal meetings. It showcases advanced stone, platform, architecture, and tiki carvings that represent ancestors and deities.
We wandered around for quite a while. It was pretty and very interesting!
There are also several restaurants, some grocery stores, and a resort there.
9. The Pier
Every afternoon, local fishermen assemble at the pier to clean their fish.
We loved watching them exercise their craft.
Not surprisingly, there were sharks there most of the time.
It also seemed to be a spot for locals to gather and share stories of their day.
10. Snorkeling at Anse Teanapakiu
So many fish!
Getting Around
There are taxis on Nuku Hiva, primarily in the form of 4×4 vehicles operated by locals for airport transfers and tours. While no formal, metered, or municipal taxi system operates throughout the island, private transport services such as Vaimo’u Transport or Taxi Seb can be arranged, especially for the 1.5-hour journey between the airport and Taiohae.
We opted to rent a car through Vely Car, located right by the pier.
With a car, we were able to go to all of these places:
And also see this:
Where We Ate
Pension, Restaurant, Pizzeria Moana Nui (multiple times)
He’ee Tai Inn
We would return to either of them. The pictures below do not do the dishes justice.
Accommodations
It’s easy to find lodging on Nuku Hiva. The Le Nuku Hiva resort operates there, as well as a smaller hotel and some pensions (guest houses).
Getting There
This is also easy. The largest and primary airport in the Marquesas Islands is Nuku Hiva Airport (NHV), featuring a 5,571-foot paved runway that makes it the best-equipped in the archipelago. A domestic flight with Air Tahiti takes about 3 hours and 15 minutes from Tahiti.
Final Thoughts
In the world of travel, Nuku Hiva is truly a hidden gem: it receives only a few thousand tourists a year.
Its steep, rugged mountains; lush beauty; and archeological significance make it a deeply rich experience and well worth a visit.
You can view a map of Nuku Hiva here.
