Of all of the places we have visited, the secluded atoll of Fakarava emerges among our favorites. You can get there only by boat or a puddle-jumper via Tahiti.
Fakarava is widely regarded as one of the most magical places in the South Pacific. It offers something for nearly everyone.
Here are some of our favorite things about this remote slice of paradise located in the Tuamotus, French Polynesia.
1. Wall of Sharks
A shark dive? Yes, please! We used a guide from the local dive shop, Top Dive, to get there. This was our first drift dive ever, and boy, were the currents strong!
We swam with literally dozens—possibly hundreds—of sharks that day.
As we started heading back, we came across this green moray eel and spent some time interacting with it.
To this day, this was our best dive ever.
2. Wind Sports
Our first anchorage was an ideal haven for wind sports. Our crew spent multiple days wing- and tow-foiling off the back of our boat.
It’s such an ideal spot that there’s even a kite school on this remote atoll.
We also spent a lot of time kayaking there.
3. The Village of Rotoava
The 37-mile-long atoll of Fakarava has only two settlements: Tetamanu and Rotoava. The latter is the main town and administrative center. Located in the northeast near the Garuae Pass, it is a quiet, charming village that offers some nice basic amenities.
We rented bikes and cycled from one end of the town to the other. It was a fun and efficient way to see it all.
4. Pearl Shopping
French Polynesia is known for its exquisite, colorful pearls. After having visited several French Polynesian Islands, my hands-down favorite pearl shop remains Heipoe Black Pearl, a family-run business on Fakarava. The owner is gracious and knowledgeable. As a bonus, the prices are competitive with Tahiti’s, with (in my opinion) a superior quality.
5. The Beaches
To say that Fakarava has some spectacular beaches would be a massive understatement.
PK 9 Beach ranks as the fifth prettiest beach in the world. It is located on the north side of the atoll.
We also found lovely beaches elsewhere on the atoll.
No matter which beach you choose, you will find swaying palms and blissful solitude. Staying on the sheltered interior of the atoll ensures the water remains calm and lagoon-like.
6. The People
Everyone we met on Fakarava was genuinely friendly, welcoming, and good-natured,
A few examples: Marion, on the left, loved sharing her tiny kitten with us. Carmen, at right, rented bikes to us and showered us with gifts when we bought a pareo in her small shop.
We appreciated everyone’s above-and-beyond warmth and hospitality.
7. Topaka Lighthouse
The lighthouse on Fakarava is a 15-meter-tall, inactive, pyramid-shaped structure that was built in 1957 from limestone, coral, and cement. We were able to easily bike to it from town.
For some reason, it bears the inscription “1357 C. Cridland.” I still haven’t figured out why.
Located on the ocean side near the airport, it is a photogenic, historical landmark known for its unusual, ancient appearance.
It’s surrounded by vegetation and situated on a quiet little beach, which we had all to ourselves.
8. The Artistic Aesthetic
We were cycling past a small, simple church, and I couldn’t resist popping in. The interior was stunning, and the chandeliers were even made of shells. Exquisite and so appropriate!
I especially loved the unapologetic use of vibrant colors.
Just down the street, we saw this creative display of fishing net floats (and several others like it).
And then some colorful bottle trees:
Being a remote atoll, materials aren’t plentiful; the locals use what they have access to to celebrate creativity. Brilliant!
A Few Other Memories
This was a raw (less rosy) part of our experience in Fakarava. But I like to share it all, so here goes:
Stray Pups
We’ve experienced stray dogs on virtually every island we’ve visited, but the ones we met on Fakarava were among the friendliest. They were so well-behaved that at first we thought they surely must be boat dogs.
We were then informed by a local that some people there control the population by eating them.
It may or may not be true, but to this day, I can’t get that bleak image out of my mind.
We learned these dogs eat fish to survive, so I wasn’t surprised when I saw one of these little guys swim playfully into the middle of the lagoon to fetch his supper.
Pig Roast
We befriended these cute little pigs during a cruisers’ BBQ. I loved watching them play and pick at the coconut shells. They were really sweet.
Thankfully, at the time, we were feasting on a delicious homemade salad and roasted veggie patties.
A week or so later, we got a notification that a pig roast was being held at that same spot. I couldn’t help but wonder which of my new friends was chosen. Heartbreaking!
Where We Ate
Hirinaki Lounge: For a quiet dinner
Snack Elda: For a yummy (and inexpensive) midday sandwich
Final Thoughts
Fakarava is a raw, simple, and authentic atoll in the Tuamotus. We had no idea we would fall in love with it as much as we did.
Its beaches are world-class, and it offers amazing diving and wind sports opportunities.
It’s not easy to get to, but if you’re looking for some solitude–with a bit of adventure thrown in from time to time—this could be your ideal retreat.
You can see a map of Fakarava here.
