This charming little island was hit hard by Hurricane Beryl in 2024. Our main visit to Carriacou was shortly before the hurricane, but we did spend one night there post-hurricane on our way to Tobago Cays. The devastation was dramatic: boats upside down, others jumbled together in a tangled mess. Roofs were blown off; lumber and rubble were everywhere. All this to say, before you go to Carriacou, you might want to double-check that the businesses you need are once again operational.
On a lighter note, I’ve seen “Tyrell Bay” spelled with two Ls (Tyrell) or with two Rs (Tyrrel). The editor in me cringes every time. I’m pretty sure the former is accurate, but people seem to respond equally to both.
Getting to Carriacou
There are two main ways to get to Carriacou: a 90-minute ferry ride from Grenada or a flight. The main airline that flies there is SVG Air. I’m pretty sure, though, that almost everyone arrives via ferry.
We sailed there on our boat and anchored in Tyrell Bay.
Customs and Immigration
For cruisers, Customs and Immigration is located in a two-story building at Carriacou Marine Boatyard and Yacht Club.
As we approached the two-story blue building, we saw a sign that read, “CAPTAIN ONLY INSIDE OFFICE.” So I took a seat on a picnic bench and waited.
When Roy returned, he had a befuddled look on his face. He described his experience inside like this:
He sat at one of the desks in the tiny office, and the Immigrations Officer rifled through his papers for quite a while. Once seemingly satisfied, the man handed back the papers and said matter-of-factly, “Now go to Customs.”
Confused, Roy got up and turned around to face the other desk in the room, apparently Customs. He took one step and sat down. Without looking up, the woman at the desk took the stack of papers and sifted through them. She then carefully tapped the stack on the desk to tidy them up and barked, “Go to Immigration.”
Once again, Roy stood up, turned around, and sat down. This went on about three times.
Then, Bam! Bam! Bam! The woman stamped our papers, and Roy was free to go. The whole time, barely a word was spoken.
It’s a good thing I wasn’t in there. I would have burst out in laughter.
Things We Loved in Carriacou
1. Paradise Beach
Paradise Beach is a beautiful spot in L’ Esterre Bay.
OK, speaking of beaches, Carriacou (Tyrell Bay) is the first place we’ve ever been to where we saw cows casually strolling on the beach. It was quite a sight!
2. Strolling the Town
We spent our time in Argyle and did a lot of strolling up and down Tyrell Bay Road.
3. Sandy Island
We loved this so much that we are writing a separate post on it!
Here are some things on our list that we didn’t get to do.
Explore Hillsborough
Hike to High North Peak
Attend the Carriacou Maroon & Stringband Music Festival aka “Big Drum” (April)
Attend the Carriacou Parang Festival (December)
Go snorkeling and diving
Shopping on Carriacou
Budget Marine
It’s located at the north end of Argyle and is easily walkable from the Tyrell Bay anchorage.
Alexis Food Store
Alexis is a decently sized market with almost everything you could need. There are some small mini-markets in Argyle, as well, but Alexis was our main go-to for provisioning.
Hillsborough has additional grocery store options, as well as a pharmacy (Hills & Valley Pharmacy).
Restaurants on Carriacou
We ate at four restaurants while on Carriacou: Las Iguanas Cafe, Lambi Queen, Bayside Cafe, and The Original Slipaway.
Las Iguanas Cafe
Las Iguanas Cafe is an outdoor cafe located within Carriacou Marine. We ate lunch there, and it was pretty good.
Lambi Queen
This small outdoor cafe is a bit of a mainstay in town; they also offer boat trips. We ate BBQ ribs and pasta there, and both were decent.
Bayside Cafe Restaurant & Bar
We went to Bayside Cafe to celebrate Mother’s Day. Our meals were delicious, and the second-floor view was lovely.
It was so endearing: the owner, dressed in a pretty black dress, flitted around the terrace, hugging guests and ensuring they were having a good time. I believe the restaurant location was new to her, having recently been moved from a spot down the street. She was beaming with pride.
Sadly, I believe that Hurricane Beryl got the best of the building, but last I heard, the restaurant has reopened in yet a different location, somewhere near L’ Esterre Government School.
The Original Slipaway
I saved the best for last. The Original Slipaway restaurant was truly amazing! The ambiance was charming, with carefully curated decor items and hand-painted rocks on each table. The food was out of this world. This has become one of my top 10 restaurants in the world. No joke.
Sadly, it was demolished during Hurricane Beryl, but it has since reopened (possibly under new ownership).
Things We Learned While Visiting Carriacou
- Currency: The Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD) is the official currency, but US dollars are widely accepted.
- Language: English is the official language, with a Creole dialect commonly spoken among locals.
- Getting Around: Minibuses and taxis are the main modes of transportation, but renting a car or scooter is another way to explore at your own pace.
- Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available in many hotels and restaurants, but don’t expect super-fast speeds everywhere.
- Stay away from the Manchineel trees! You can read more about them here.
Final Thoughts
Carriacou is a charming little island—a bit rough around the edges but very authentic. It offers something for nearly everyone: beaches; water sports; hiking; great food; a rich and diverse culture with influences from Africa, Europe, and Scotland; and a relaxed vibe. Not to mention, cows on the beach!
It was hit hard by Hurricane Beryl, and it will likely take quite some time to rebuild.
We really enjoyed our time there.
You can see a map of Tyrell Bay here.
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